For wine travelers, South Africa’s Old Vine Project has transformed a tasting trip through the Cape winelands into a journey through living wine history.  Across the Western Cape, the tell-tale shapes of gnarled old bush vines — some planted decades ago — are now among the country’s most compelling travel experiences. Visitors in the know increasingly come not just to taste wine, but to stand among vineyards that survived turbulent decades of drought, shifting wine fashions, and the global race toward high-yield commercial wine production. The Champion of South Africa’s Old Vines At the center of this movement is Rosa Kruger, the South African viticulturist widely credited with helping save the country’s…